FAQ & Contact Us
We don't currently have a location that is open to the public. To find our seeds in a store near you, visit our retail locations page.
What is the return policy?
Return policy: We guarantee that our seeds meet federal germination standards and that they were stewarded with the utmost love and care by our network of Intermountain West farmers. Once they leave the safety of our little seed headquarters, we cannot guarantee their well-being, and therefore we cannot accept returns of seeds we have sent to customers. We wouldn't feel comfortable selling seeds to you that had been returned by another customer, and we wouldn't want to sell seeds you have returned to someone else. If you changed your mind about the seeds you purchased after your order has been shipped out, consider donating them to a friend or loved one who would enjoy them! Thank you for choosing to support small-scale independent farmers for your garden seeds!
Do you have a seed catalog?
Do you sell gift cards / gift certificates?
We do! You can purchase them here.
I need an affidavit for my organic certification that states your seeds are non-GMO and untreated. Can you provide one?
Thanks for purchasing our seeds for your certified organic farm! Please email Cassie at firstname.lastname@example.org to request an affidavit.
Do you sell seed potatoes?
I don’t have a PayPal account, can I still place an order?
2. Click “Pay with Debit or Credit Card”
Can I pay with a check?
Where is my order? How long until I receive my order?
Help! I put the wrong address on my order.
Something is missing from my order or I received the wrong packets in my order.
The seeds in my packet are not the correct variety.
Do you have _________?
______ is out of stock. When will it be available to purchase?
Do you sell cover crop seed?
I work for ____ and we are tax exempt. How do I pay without sales tax?
Do you ship internationally?
I would like to purchase 100 pounds of ________, can you sell it to me?
Why don’t I have tomato fruits on my plants?
- Is my plant making flowers? If not, there could be 2 different things happening: 1) it might be that it is in too much shade, or 2) it might be that you gave it WAY too much nitrogen (in the form of compost or fertilizer). If it’s too shady, try thinning out some of the branches to allow more light to penetrate better. If you put too much nitrogen on it, lesson learned! In the future, don’t add as much compost or fertilizer. In the meantime, you can try putting a LOT of water on it and flushing the excess nutrients out through the soil. If your plant is making flowers, read on....
- Are my plant’s flowers falling off before they make fruit? If yes, is it over 90 degrees outside? Tomato plants often drop their blossoms before pollinating them when it is very hot outside. As the temperatures cool, they may start to make fruit. You can also try shading the plants with a shade cloth. Generally, short-season varieties can often flower and set fruit before temperatures climb in the summer, so consider choosing short season varieties if you consistently have problems with fruit set in your garden. If they’re making flowers and it’s not too hot, read on....
- Are my tomatoes getting pollinated? Tomatoes are generally self-pollinating, but if they are in a greenhouse or other situation where they are protected from the rustling of wind, the passing by of animals, etc, it is possible that the pollen isn’t getting transferred to the stigma inside their little flowers. You can try just walking by the plants and brushing your hands over them every day to encourage pollination. Folks growing lots of tomatoes in greenhouses have been known to use electric toothbrushes and even vibrators to help pollinate their tomatoes!
My seeds aren’t germinating.
We're sorry to hear that our seeds are not germinating for you. There are so many factors that affect why and when a seed chooses to sprout, and it is impossible to troubleshoot all of the possible explanations here. But here are some tips:
Seeds sprout better when they are planted at the correct depth. Some seeds need light to germinate, while some like to be buried under the soil. As a general rule, you never want to bury your seeds at a depth more than twice their size (i.e. if you plant a pea that is 1/4” across, you would not want to plant it more than 1/2” deep in the soil). Generally, seeds sprout better when they are planted more shallowly and kept moist.
Seeds sprout better when they are kept evenly moist but not soaking wet. If planting seeds indoors, use a commercial potting soil rather than garden soil, which can hold too much water when it’s in a pot and make seeds rot before they sprout. If they’re outside, water often enough to keep the soil surface moist, but not hard or long enough to wash the little seeds away. In our gardens we generally water the soil lightly once a day while we are trying to germinate seeds, unless it is really hot. Then we might have to water more often. Also, when planting seeds indoors, be careful not to overwater your seeds, which can cause “damping off”ーa fungus that rots their little tiny stems, making it seem like maybe they didn’t germinate, when in fact they did, but then were killed by this fungus, leaving a little stub of stem where the tiny sprout was.
Seeds sprout better when they are planted in the right temperature. Every seed has a temperature range they’re most happy to germinate in. For cold crops like lettuces, greens, carrots, beets, radishes, peas, etc, this range is about 55-65 degrees. Hot crops like peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, etc, prefer warmer temperatures to germinate, like 65-75 degrees in the soil. Seeds planted outside these temps might germinate but it could take them longer, which puts them more at risk of rotting in the soil.
Some seeds need to go through winter to sprout. This process is known as cold-stratification, and it is a natural adaptation many native plants have to allow them to know when it is spring, so they can sprout in an optimal season for survival. Read the directions on your seed packet to know if your seeds need cold-stratification to sprout.
What is cold stratification and how do I mimic it?
Some seeds require periods of temperature fluctuation prior to germination. This is "cold stratification". When a plant produces and spreads mature seed in the summer or fall, it wouldn’t be a good time for those seeds to sprout. The seeds “know” that they first need to experience cold/freezing weather and then a frost, after which it will be safe to germinate. If they germinate too early, the plants would risk freezing and dying before they reach maturity.
The best time to plant seeds that require cold stratification is in late fall or winter. This should yield successful results. When that’s not possible, you can attempt to mimic these conditions prior to starting indoors or direct seeding by storing seeds in damp sand in the refrigerator.
Note that indoor stratification is not always successful. Additionally, you may find that certain plants produce seeds with erratic germination, which is just Mother Nature’s method of ensuring the survival of the plant’s DNA. Imagine that there’s a warm week in January, followed by a few more months of frosty temperatures. A few seeds may sprout and die back, which some others wait until the “true” spring to sprout.
How do I know how much wildflower seed to plant?
Use about 1 pound of wildflower seed to cover 2000 square feet. Generally, wildflowers have a lower germination percentage than traditional garden seeds, even when they have the same number of viable seeds in a packet. This is due to the erratic dormancy tendencies of many native species. So, in general, you should plan for your wildflower seed packets to cover much less area than they would if every plant germinated and grew to its full size.
Will wildflowers grow well where I’m located?
Growing wildflowers requires a different mindset than the one we normally use to be successful gardeners. For tips and tricks about all things wildflower, check out this blog post.